Cambodian border experience
Yesterday we crossed the Cambodian border, after falling victim to several scams in one ticket. We bought a fairly expansive ticket from Chiang Mai to Siam Reap(the city next to the Angkor Wat). We were promised to buses in Thailand and good buses in Cambodia. We didn't get the bus we were promised from Chiang Mai to Bangkok. A pickup truck brought us to a gas station where a bus, which looked like it was at least 20 years old, was waiting for us. Somehow it managed to reach Bangkok in time for our connection bus.
The bus from Bangkok to the border was even worse. We got picked up from a highway junction. The bus rattled and was pretty cramped. At the border they tried to scam us into paying twice the visa price. We also had to wait for about two hours at a restaurant while some guy went with most peoples passport, and their money to arrange said visas. We said we arrange it ourself at the border. When we got to the actual border we were lead, by one of the tour group people to the clerk where we could buy the visa. It said very clearly above him "tourist visa 20$, normal visa 25$". We knew from the lonely planet that tourist was 20 and business was 25. The guy from the tour company, and the clerk changed a few quick sentences, and it seemed then that it was 25$, because "a tourist visa is just for one day" Feeling we did the best we could we payed the extra 5$ each. One thing I'm sure of. I'm going to file an official complain with the tourist police as soon as we get back to Thailand. Its not that much money, viewed in the total budget of the trip, but it can really ruin your day, and there is no real reason for it. After waiting in line for 3/4 of an hour we were finally in Cambodia. Then we were made to wait with the whole group for a bus that would take us to Siem Reap.
We have heard about buses taking people to guest houses so the drivers can get commission, and after a short talk with the tour operator that accompanied us it became clear that we were gonna be on just such a bus. "I have no control over where he stops, I'm in the Thailand side" He the proceeded to cross the border with no passport and no problem. The scene on the Cambodian side is really something. It feels like the wild west, like no man's land. Lots of shady types walking around. You can almost smell the criminality in the air. I wanted to get out of there as fast as we could. Finally a bus came. It looked like it would break down any minute. Paula noticed all the "problematic people", that is those who tried to arrange the visa for themselves, were singled out to get on the bus, so she decided no matter what we are not getting on that bus. I reasoned that there are 25 people on the bus, there were only 7 problematic people in total. Paula insisted, and I, being the loving guy that I am, stood by her and refused to get on the bus. After argueing with a few people we were left to be, and the bus left. Another half hour passed and nothing happend. I decided it was time for me to take some action, so locating the nicest looking guy I walked over, with a big phony smile and asked very politly when the hell are we getting the fuck out of here. My exact words might have been somewhat nicer, but I think this better describe my feelings at the moment. "The other bus is broken so we need to see what happens, there might not be another bus today, but we will take care of you." I gave the guy 10 minutes to find out when, if at all, this mistery, maybe broken, bus is coming. Of course he didn't get back to me so after a quarter of an hour I walked to him, smiling a bit less, but still being nice, and asked again about transportation.
"Bus not coming, so I have arranged a Taxi for you" I heard a few minutes ago how some tried to stuff 8 backpackers in one regular 4 door car taxi. "How big is the taxi, and how many people will go in it?" I asked. "Regular car, with 4 people". I was getting a bit optimistic. a few minutes later a Toyota Camry pulled next to us and we were shown to it together with an American couple. After being told about 10 times the taxi has already been payed for we left for Siem Reap. There were still about 10 people waiting for transportation when we left. About 2 km from the border we passed the bus that Paula didn't want to take. It looked like it was broken. The passengers were outside, the driver was looking into the engine. I was so glad Paula decided we shouldn't take that bus. I have no idea if these people made it to Siem Reap that evening. At around 9 pm we got to Siem Reap, after 26 hours of traveling. It took us a few tries but we found a nice guest house to stay in and so here we are.
I consider myself an experience traveler. I have crossed border cross land before, and I have never had it as bad as the Cambodian border. I really was on the verge of just saying "Fuck it, lets go back to Thailand and do Malaysia instead."It felt like you were being smuggled into Cambodia by the Mafia. The worst part is, that the Cambodian government is keeping it like that thanks to a certain airway company bribing a certain official to keep this statues quo as long as possible. You can guess why I'm sure. Siem Reap luckily has done a bit to repair the damage done by the border crossing. The people are nice and polite, though the tuktuk drivers jump you whenever you so any sign of an intention to move from one place to another.
Tomorrow we are gonna start exploring the Angkor Wat. We really are looking forward to it.